
| Nobody arrives in Venice and sees all of the city for the first time. Founded fifteen hundred years ago on a cluster of mudflats in the centre of the lagoon, Venice rose to become Europe's main trading post between the West and the East, and at its height controlled an empire that spread north to the Dolomites and over the sea as far as Cyprus. As its wealth increased and its population grew, the fabric of the city grew ever more dense. The historic centre of Venice is made up of 118 islands, most of which began life as a micro-community, each with a parish church or two, and a square for public meetings. Very few parts of the hundred or so islets that compose the historic centre are not built up, and very few of its closely knit streets bear no sign of the city's long lineage. Even in the most insignificant alleyway you might find fragments of a medieval building embedded in the wall of a house like fossil remains lodged in a cliff face. |
| In the heyday of the Venetian Republic, some 200,000 people lived in Venice. Merchants from Germany, Greece, Turkey and a host of other countries maintained warehouses here; transactions in the banks and bazaars of the Rialto dictated the value of commodities all over the continent; in the dockyards of the Arsenale the workforce was so vast that a warship could be built and fitted out in a single day; and the Piazza San Marco was perpetually thronged with people here to set up business deals or report to the Republic's government. |
















| San Clemente Palace occupies a restored 19th century three-storey monastery on a private island, 15 minutes by shuttle boat from Piazza San Marco. The guestrooms are defined by four-metre ceilings, arched windows providing views of the gardens, terrazzo floors with rugs, reading chairs, and cocktail tables. Rooms come with satellite television, minibars, and complimentary newspapers. Beige-marble bathrooms include separate tubs and showers, bathrobes, slippers, Etro toiletries, and a music system. The hotel occupies a monastic building dating back to 1859, set in four acres of centuries-old gardens. Abandoned in the 1980s, the monastery was converted to a hotel and opened in 2003. |
| A water-bus is the quickest way of getting between far-flung points, and even in cases where it might be quicker to walk, a canal trip is sometimes the more pleasant way of covering the distance. |






| The monuments which draw the largest crowds are the Basilica di San Marco - the mausoleum of the city's patron saint - and the Palazzo Ducale - the home of the doge and all the governing councils. Certainly these are the most dramatic structures in the city: the first a mosaic-clad emblem of Venice's Byzantine origins, the second perhaps the finest of all secular Gothic buildings. Every parish rewards exploration, though - a roll-call of the churches worth visiting would feature over fifty names, and a list of the important paintings and sculptures they contain would be twice as long. Two of the distinctively Venetian institutions known as the Scuole retain some of the outstanding examples of Italian Renaissance art - the Scuola di San Rocco , with its dozens of pictures by Tintoretto, and the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni , decorated with a gorgeous sequence by Carpaccio. |
| One museum that should not be missed is the Accademia , an assembly of Venetian painting that consists of virtually nothing but masterpieces; other prominent collections include the museum of eighteenth-century art in the Ca' Rezzonico and the Museo Correr , the civic museum of Venice. |

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